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The clutch replacement was performed using the procedure from the DIY section of the s2ki under the hood forum and the Helms manual. Some additional notes are below based on my experience.

s2ki.com Forum DIY Clutch Replacement

- Why disconnect the two connectors at the back of the head? The harness does not move relative to the head?
- Tie the slave cylinder out of the way.
- Only disconnect the front of the drive shaft and tie it up to the driver side with a coat hanger.
- Lower the rear sub-frame bolts 1/8" more then the front ones to provide a bit more clearance. Ensure there are at least three full turns of thread engaged for the rear bolts before lowering the engine/sub-frame.
- Innovative engine and transmission mounts not a problem. I was concerned that the engine would not tilt due to the stiffer mounts, but that was not a problem. These are black 75A durometer polyurethane.
- Should the rear crank seal be replaced even if it is not leaking? My car had 100k and there was not any oil leaking, but I was still tempted to replace it. Minimal advice on this one.
- Be sure to replace the pressure plate especially if the spring fingers are worn where the TO bearing contacts.
- When installing the transmission and jacking up the rear pay attention to the AC to ensure the hoses and compressor do not get in the way. If when jacking up the back end of the transmission it will not go all the way then it may be the AC is jammed between things.
- The rear transmission mount may not go on easily since the engine is lowered. Start two of the bolts, but do not tighten all the way. Put in the last bolt once the engine is up raised and the sub frame bolts are tightened.
High on jack standsIMG_3513IMG_3511IMG_3512IMG_3485IMG_3488IMG_3491IMG_3484IMG_3504IMG_3479IMG_3480IMG_3481IMG_3503tied up drive shaftEverything outIMG_3492worn clutch plateIMG_3495surface of pressure plateworn spring fingers